While the well-known Camino de Santiago remains congested with walkers, the Camino de Levante provides a more sedate option with Vatican-approved religious and cultural sites as well as delicious Mediterranean food.
Caravaca de la Cruz is celebrating its jubilee in 2024; this rare occasion only occurs once every seven years, thus there will be extra celebrations and attractions.
Starting in Orihuela, the Camino de Levante snakes its way to the town of Caravaca de la Cruz through the rocky, desert-like districts of Alicante and Murcia.
With the exception of the rare trafficked road crossing, the trail is primarily off-road along an along Verde, which is an abandoned railway line converted into a greenway for hiking and bicycling.
The multi-day route (often five days for reasonably fit walkers and three days on e-bikes) offers an unlimited diversity of sceneries.
There are fragrant pine forests, spiky almond trees, gnarled olives, and lemon orchards bursting with fruit. You traverse abandoned railway bridges across forested valleys with views of purple mountain ranges and pass through hilltop settlements topped with imposing cathedrals.
Upon reaching the Caravaca de la Cruz sanctuary, pilgrims on foot or by bicycle receive a certificate and stamps, just as those who walk the Camino de Santiago.
On the Levante track, though, I encounter very few other walkers and cyclists, in contrast to the well-traveled route that concludes in Santiago de Compostela.
Murcia: Attractions along the Levante Camino
Every trail stage ends in a town or city with lodging options and a wide range of attractions.
The capital of the region, Murcia, has numerous squares and winding alleyways lined with cafes and restaurants with terrace seating. “In Murcia, people live in the streets, they don’t like being trapped in their houses,” says Inma.
During Monday lunchtime, the outdoor seating area of Plaza de las Flores is bustling with Murcians enjoying cañas, which are small beers, and the city’s signature tapa, known as “marinera” – a u-shaped breadstick topped with a salty anchovy and a dollop of potato, tuna, and mayonnaise salad.
Stepping out onto the sun-drenched Plaza del Cardenal Belluga, which is dominated by the cathedral on one side and the nearby bishop’s palace with faded murals, is a surprise after the streets that are shaded and resemble a maze.
The cathedral, which is made of warm yellow sandstone, features features from many eras, including an elaborate Baroque front, a Renaissance chapel with a huge carved chain around the outside to indicate it is part of the church even though it is outside its bounds, and a highly decorated Gothic doorway.
After touring the city, Inma takes me to Murcia’s favourite spot to meet, café Asiático, which is located in the Drexco bar on Main Street. This mislabeled ‘Asian’ coffee, which is a strong blend of espresso, port, condensed milk, lemon zest, and cinnamon, is said to have arrived in the city via a Russian visitor.
We sample wines from the Murcia region at La Diligente, including the fruity and full-bodied Gémina. It is made with Monastrell grapes that are over 40 years old, which is unique for European plants and dates back to the phylloxera insect invasion that devastated vineyards.
Bullas: Attractions Along the Levante Camino
After trekking for four days, you stop in Bullas, where you can see some of the vineyards that produce indigenous types, like Monastrell. Bodega Balcona is owned and operated by Pepa, a passionate and unconventional person.
She proudly introduces us to her aromatic violet-scented Monastrell and punchy peachy Merlot rosé in her rustic tasting area. Some of her vines are as old as 66 years old and pre-phylloxera.
Despite its modest appearance, Bullas Town boasts a sophisticated dining scene. I start my meal at Entretempos with a classic appetiser of caramelised almonds and dried fish roe, followed by a light and refreshing Murcian salad with tomatoes, olives, tuna, egg, and lots of olive oil.
Things to Do in La Cruz, Caravaca
The last stop on the Camino de Santiago, Caravaca de la Cruz, is expected to welcome about a million visitors to the area in this year of celebrations.
The Santuario de la Fuensanta, which was formerly a fortified castle before being converted into a basilica, is the source of its religious prominence. Here, the actual cross’s fragments are contained within a jewelled container shaped like the Caravaca cross, which may be recognised by its two horizontal arms.
During the jubilee year, masses are celebrated daily in the sanctuary, where participants receive cross fragments as a blessing. On weekends, the gatherings are moved outside to the spacious terrace to accommodate the large number of people.
Numerous religious souvenir stores may be found in the town core, offering elaborately decorated gold and silver reproductions of the Caravaca cross.
Caravaca commemorates the Baño de la Cruz on May 3rd of every year, remembering the day in 1384 when the cross was thrown into the town’s water supply to drive out a locust plague.
Los Caballos del Vino (Wine Horses), a UNESCO-recognized event featuring horse races and competitions for the most extravagant horse decorations, take place in the lead-up to this holy day.
Hungry hikers in Caravaca won’t have any gastronomic problems, as I had discovered in Murcia and Bullas. After indulging in a delectable meal of mushroom and black truffle croquetas, tuna tartar, and prawn salad with mango and avocado, I had to literally stop the plate procession at El Horno.
I learn how to view the heavens like the ancestors of modern humans during a Jubilee Year stargazing session with Astroversia, which marks the conclusion of my quest. It’s a fitting way to round off a week spent away from the bustle of big cities and traffic.
Is there any company that will pick up bags and take to the next town or how has anyone else managed baggage please?